Sunday, June 19, 2011

GRILLED CHEESE, PLEASE!--A Second Cookbook from Laura Werlin that Highlights the Gooey Stuff We Love to Melt with Bread!



Despite the protests of my doctor, I cannot give up cheese.  I put it in nearly everything I eat. If I could figure out a way to melt cheese in my coffee or on a cookie, I would--I swear to you.  But I never thought I would need a cookbook of grilled cheese recipes.  Wrong.  I recently received GRILLED CHEESE, PLEASE: 50 Scrumptiously Cheesy Recipes by Laura Werlin (Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC; $16.99; ISBN: 978--1-4494-0165-8).  I missed Ms. Werlin's first volume on the subject, Great Grill Cheese, but no matter.  This one is stuffed with a lot of recipes that I'll want to make and consume as quickly as possible.


First of all, this is a really good looking book. It's the perfect size for a single-subject cookbook, and makes an excellent gift (Note to guests:  I'd rather receive a book like this or a bottle of wine, rather than having to stop what I'm doing and search out everything I need to arrange flowers when my head is wrapped up in figuring out my hosting chores).  The many photos capture gooey, melted cheese in all its glossy glory, which makes me want to make something cheesy right away, such as: the cover photo--a Double Cheddar and Tomato Jam sandwich.  Aside from the cheese, the tomato jam intrigued me so much I went home that night and mixed up a batch of this addictive condiment, which the author recommends using on salmon and on burgers. Or you can use it as an ingredient in another sandwich, Eggplant Parmesan with Fontina and Tomato Jam.   I'm craving the Mozzarella and Crispy Prosciutto and Broccoli Rabe sandwich with its dash of red pepper flakes adding a little heat to the bitterness of the vegetable with the salt of the ham.  The mozzarella adds a touch of creaminess to this soulful combination.



Tomato Jam, which I made from GRILLED CHEESE, PLEASE!  This stuff is addictive.  I could eat it on a 
toasted bagel or by the spoonful right out of the jar. 


I don't own a grill press, but I have a Le Creuset grilled ridge pan, which will do in a pinch.  So I had to try the Camembert and Comté with Mushrooms.  This sophisticated sandwich which has a whiff of French with its native cheeses and hints of Spanish flair with a splash of Sherry vinegar.  I bet you a kid would still love this sandwich.  Arepas, are made with a sandwich dough you make with masarepa , a precooked corn flour). They are a bit like a Latin English muffin.  I discovered them via Daisy Martinez, and here Ms. Werlin presents Arepas with Monterey Jack, Plantains and Black Beans.  Another sandwich with big Latin flavors is the Cubano, a favorite that I often indulged in during my New York years.  Everyone should sample the considerable merits of the Cubano, a sumptuous grilled sandwich with roasted Cuban pork, ham, Swiss cheese and pickles (in this case cornichons) and all gathered and then pressed in crusty sandwich roll.  I like it with mustard (not authentic), but Werlin includes it as an optional addition. Served on a very hot day with an ice cold Corona, and you've got yourself a little bit of heaven.


GRILLED CHEESE, PLEASE! includes house specialties of well-known regional restaurants that specialize in grilled cheese sandwiches, with recipes from the American Grilled Cheese Kitchen (San Francisco), Brie's Company (Fayetteville, AK), Grilled Cheese & Company in Catonsville, MD, The Grilled Cheese Truck (Los Angeles), The Milk Truck in Brooklyn,  and the Grilled Cheese Grill in Portland, OR (which I now must try).


Keeping an open mind, Laura Werlin collected favorites from friends, including an insanely over-the-top combination called Erika's PB & Cheese.  If the obviously incompatible combination of peanut butter and cheese doesn't put you off, the addition of bologna, mayonnaise and kosher dill pickles, should leave you howling.  Only a a stoner dude could concoct this mess.  I only mention this because Erika works at Rogue Creamery in Oregon--my newly adopted state.  Werlin dares us to try it.  Some other time.


Rant over. Great idea, great package, terrific recipes.  GRILLED CHEESE, PLEASE didn't make me long for my long lost childhood of grilled American cheese sandwiches and tomato soup.  It appealed to the adult in me that just goes bananas for cheese, and therefore this delightful cookbook just made it into my permanent collection.



Camembert and Comté with Mushrooms

When mushrooms and two of the world’s best cheeses like these are piled high on a baguette, you get a glorious symphony of earthy, creamy, and buttery flavors. Although this sandwich is sublime with almost any type of mushroom, the easy-to-find white or brown ones taste terrific.

4 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
1 small shallot, finely chopped (about 2 tablespoons)
1 large clove garlic, minced
8 ounces white or brown mushrooms, stems removed and sliced  ¼ inch thick
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar (or use red wine vinegar)
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 baguette, cut crosswise into 4 (6-inch-wide) pieces
6 ounces Camembert cheese, sliced ¼ inch thick
8 ounces Comté cheese, coarsely grated (or use Gruyère, Swiss, or fontina)

Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and cook just until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Turn the heat to high and add the vinegar. Cook until almost all of the vinegar has boiled away and the mushrooms have begun to caramelize around the edges, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the thyme and salt and pepper to taste. Stir once or twice and remove from the heat. Transfer the mushrooms to a plate and set aside. Wipe out the skillet with a paper towel but do not wash it.

To assemble: Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a small pan or in the microwave. Cut each baguette piece in half lengthwise. Pinch out a small amount of the soft center of each piece of bread to create a well. Place the baguette pieces, crust side up, on your work surface and spread with butter. Turn the bottom (flat) pieces, crust side down, on your work surface. Distribute the mushroom mixture on the bread, followed by the Camembert. Top with the Comté. Place the remaining baguette pieces on top, crust side up.

For stovetop method: Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-low heat for 2 minutes. Put the sandwiches in the pan, cover, and cook for 5 to 6 minutes, until evenly browned. Turn the sandwiches, pressing each one very firmly with a spatula to compress the bread and filling. Cover and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until the undersides are golden brown and the cheese has melted. Turn the sandwiches once more, press firmly with the spatula again, and cook for 1 minute, or until the cheese has completely melted. (You might need to peek inside to make sure.) Remove from the pan and let cool for 5 minutes. Cut in half and serve.

For sandwich maker method: Preheat the sandwich maker. Follow directions for assembly above. Cook according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Makes 4 sandwiches

—From Grilled Cheese, Please! 50 Scrumptiously Cheesy Recipes by Laura Werlin/Andrews McMeel Publishing

Double Cheddar and Tomato Jam




It seems that almost everybody likes the combination of grilled cheese and tomato soup. The easy-to-make Tomato Jam (page 148) is a variation on that theme, because the rich tomato flavor that’s usually in the soup goes directly into the sandwich. The double cheddar is your cue that not only is there cheese on the inside of the sandwich, but it’s also on the outside. The result is a little sweet, a little savory, a little crunchy, a little salty, and a lot enjoyable.

12 ounces cheddar cheese

4 tablespoons butter, at room temperature

8 sandwich-size slices sourdough bread

6 tablespoons Tomato Jam (page 148)

Using the very small holes of a box grater or other similar-size grating device, finely grate 6 ounces of the cheddar. Place the cheese in a small bowl. Add the butter and, using the back of a fork, mash the mixture until the cheese is well incorporated into the butter.

Using the large holes of a box grater or other similar-size grating device, grate the remaining cheese.

To assemble: Spread the cheddar-butter mixture on one side of each of the bread slices. Place 4 slices of bread, buttered side down, on your work surface. Spread 1½ tablespoons of jam on each slice. Distribute the cheese, and top with the remaining bread slices, buttered side up.

For stovetop method: Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium heat for 2 minutes. Put the sandwiches into the pan, cover, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until golden brown. Turn the sandwiches, pressing each one firmly with a spatula to flatten slightly. Cover and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the undersides are well browned (watch carefully because the cheese on the outside of the bread can darken quickly). Turn the sandwiches once more, press firmly with the spatula again, cook for 1 minute, and remove from the pan. Let cool for 5 minutes. Cut in half and serve.

For sandwich maker method: Preheat the sandwich maker. Follow directions for assembly above. Cook according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Makes 4 sandwiches

Tomato Jam

This recipe is based on one I got years ago from Charles Dale, now the chef at Encantado Resort in Santa Fe. Although I don’t think Charles had grilled cheese sandwiches in mind when he created the recipe, I feel pretty certain he’d wholeheartedly approve of its use for just that purpose. Note that you can make this a week in advance and refrigerate it. Also, you’ll have more jam than you need for one batch of sandwiches. You can use the extra to make more sandwiches, and it’s also great with salmon or on hamburgers.

6 large ripe tomatoes (about 1½ pounds) peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped (use Roma tomatoes if it isn’t tomato season)

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

¼ cup red wine vinegar

2½ tablespoons sugar (if you’re making this in the middle  of tomato season when tomatoes are at their sweetest,  reduce the sugar by 1 to 2 teaspoons)

Salt

Place all the ingredients in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. The mixture should bubble ever so slightly but not boil. Cook for about 1 hour, or until the jam has thickened and most of the liquid has evaporated. Let cool. (You can make this up to 1 week in advance. Store in the refrigerator.)

—From Grilled Cheese, Please! 50 Scrumptiously Cheesy Recipes by Laura Werlin/Andrews McMeel Publishing

1 comment:

  1. I love grilled cheese sandwiches made with cheddar, Swiss, Monterey jack, etc., etc.

    ReplyDelete